MONDOVI’
Exploring the Town of Mondovì, and the Surrounding Territory
Step into the picturesque landscapes of the Monregalese Hills and the town of Mondovì, at the foot of the southern Alps, where the Piedmont and Liguria regions meet.
Once a battlefield of the House of Savoy, this part of Piedmont has a rich legacy of medieval and Baroque works of art dating to the XVII and XVIII centuries including the massive Shrine of Vicoforte, the largest elliptical dome ever built in bricks.
Embark on a journey of a different Italy, exploring the hidden gems of Piedmont. Our first stop takes us to the quaint town of Mondovì, nestled on an upland whose toponym was “Mons Regalis”. From the central Piazza Maggiore built on two levels to the watching tower, Mondovì offers a glimpse into Italy’s captivating past. But our adventure doesn’t end there. Join us as we uncover the treasures scattered throughout this enchanting section of Piedmont.
Historical Highlights of Mondovì
The origins of Mondovì date back to the Roman Empire, but it truly flourished during the Middle Ages. Its strategic position at the intersection of trade routes crossing the mountain between Piedmont and the Mediterranean coast made it a vital settlement for commerce and military endeavors.
The town was often a battleground since the establishment of the diocese of Mondovì in 1388 when this part of Piedmont was taken away to the bishop of Asti.
Later the House of Savoy left an indelible mark on its character and architecture as they recognized the strategic importance of the town and invested in its development, fortifying its walls and constructing significant buildings that still stand today.
The town became a center of governance and culture, with an early seat of the university. Starting in the XIX century the mass production of ceramics shaped the local economy and had a strong impact on the town’s social life for about a century.
What to See in Mondovì
A tour of Mondovì begins from the lower town, known as Breo, which developed along the Ellero River.
Here, the church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul deserves a stop to look at the façade’s clock whose mechanism is decorated with the shape of a local character named “Il Moro”, a popular character during carnival celebrations.
A second stop in the Breo neighborhood is the Baroque church of San Filippo, the first of several religious buildings designed by local architect Francesco Gallo.
The upper section of Mondovì, called Piazza, is connected by a modern and efficient funicular designed by Italian master Giorgetto Giugiaro.
Mondovì Piazza is the old part of the city founded around 1198 by the inhabitants of three hamlets – Vico, Vasco, and Carassone – who joined their forces and rebelled against the threats of the bishop of Asti.
This explains the name of Mondovì, which comes from “Mount of Vico“, the first name of this community.
As you wander through Mondovì, the remnants of its past are palpable. The ancient architecture, particularly in the upper town, narrates stories of a bygone era.
The Piazza Maggiore, with its impressive palazzi and the majestic San Francesco Church, stands as a testament to the town’s historical prosperity. The juxtaposition of medieval and Baroque styles creates an enchanting atmosphere, inviting visitors to step back in time and appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship that define this remarkable location.
The Upper Mondovì Piazza
The central Piazza Maggiore lies on two levels and is the heart of Mondovì Piazza, the upper town.
Beautiful porticoed buildings decorated with frescoes frame the square, such as Palazzo dei Bressani, dating back to the XIII century, the Governor Palace, and many others.
Mondovì boasts the Bishop’s Palace with precious tapestries and the historic Sala delle Lauree. In this room was founded the University of Mondovì between 1556 and 1719.
The ancient University, together with the geographic location and other cultural events, turned Mondovì into one of the most important towns during the dukedom of the Savoy.
In 1472, for instance, in Mondovì came the first book printed in Piedmont with modern typography, just sixteen years after the printing work of the Gutenberg Bible.
Among the hidden gems of Piedmont and northern Italy, stands Mondovì’s Printing Museum.
The works of art of local architect Francesco Gallo are spread across town. He was the man who brought the Baroque style to southern Piedmont. Walking around Mondovì Piazza, for instance, one can enter the Cathedral of S. Donato and the church of Misericordia that he designed.
Thigs to do in Mondovì: la Missione
The Church of S. Francesco Saverio, known as La Missione is on the side the central Piazza Maggiore of Mondovì, in Italy.
Built by architect Boetto in the XVII century for the Jesuits, was decorated by Andrea Pozzo, a well-known artist who worked in Rome and Wien. The painter designed a fake architecture on the inner vault of the ceiling, giving the optical illusion of a much lighter and wider space.
Next to the church, stands the former Jesuits residence, the first to be opened in Piedmont in 1561, as suggested by Emanuele Filiberto, Duke of Savoy.
Today the site is home of the Palace of Justice on whose outside walls was painted an astronomic observatory with twelve sun clocks. This work dates back to 1716 and it is attributed to painter Gian Battista Rocca.
The ceramic museum of Mondovì
Mondovì, in Italy, was once a major production center of ceramics. Since the early 1800s, in fact, in this territory was developed a distinctive decoration style used by local artisans who, soon, left room to industrial operations which lasted until the 1950s.
In order to bring back to life memories of those old days, Mondovì has its own Ceramic museum.
More to visit in Mondovì, Italy
The tour of Piedmont continues through the streets of the upper Mondovì Piazza visiting the exterior of the 1700s Synagogue and the so-called Parco del Tempo.
This outdoor space displays a number of sundials and other instruments used to measure time.
Most installations are around the Civic Tower from where one can enjoy views over the western Alps, all the way to the Matterhorn and all over Piedmont.
Mondovì is also a major gathering point for air balloon festivals and the open-air Parco del Tempo is a perfect spot to see them flying.
A tour of Piedmont around Mondovì
A tour of Piedmont in Italy can continue with the territory surrounding Mondovì.
Art lovers should not miss the Santa Croce chapel, located just outside the town center of Mondovì. The inside is decorated with ancient frescoes from the 1400s and a rare example of brachial cross, a unique iconography of the middle-ages.
This work of art is attributed to a prominent painter of that time that worked across Piedmont, called Jacquerio.
Tour of Piedmont: walking from Mondovì to Vicoforte
The Santa Croce chapel is just the first of five votive buildings scattered along the country road connecting Mondovì to Vicoforte.
To complete the 4 km (2.5 mi) hike it takes about one hour.
The original project included thirteen chapels conceived for pilgrims who could stop and pray in each of them. Built in the second half of the 1800s, today only five chapels can be visited, surrounded by nice views over the hills and the Alps.
Northern Italy tour: visit Vicoforte
Only a couple of miles separate Mondovì from the dome of Vicoforte, the largest elliptical one ever built in bricks.
It was built by Francesco Gallo on the previous foundation of Ascanio Vitozzi who started two centuries earlier the project.
The dome is part of a Sanctuary commissioned by Carlo Emanuele I, duke of Savoy, as the family mausoleum.
Recently, it made the news the arrival in Vicoforte of the remains of King Vittorio Emanuele III and Queen Elena.
Learn more about the guided tour of Vicoforte.
Bastia di Mondovì and its frescoes
The province of Cuneo is rich in art. A northern Italy tour can include the small church of San Fiorenzo in the town of Bastia di Mondovì, not too far from the border between Piedmont and Liguria.
Its 326 sq meters (3509 sq ft) of frescoes dating back to the XV century, are an outstanding masterpiece of biblia pauperum, used to educate illiterate pilgrims with the story of the Bible.
The cycle of frescoes was completed by different masters, as the church was an orientation point of reference for merchants, pilgrims and soldiers who traveled between Piedmont and Liguria across the mountains.
