The History of Barolo Wine from the Savoy to the Barolo Boys
Barolo wine, often hailed as the “King of Wines,” carries a rich tapestry of history that begins in the noble lands of Savoy and journeys through time to the innovative Barolo Boys. This prestigious Italian wine, made from the Nebbiolo grape, has not only captivated connoisseurs with its bold flavors but also reflects the intricate relationship between tradition and modernity.
From its royal endorsements to the passionate producers who reshaped its destiny, the story of Barolo is one of resilience and transformation. In this article, we’ll explore the centuries of evolution that have defined Barolo, delving into its roots in the Piedmont region controlled by the House of Savoy and the revolutionary efforts of the Barolo Boys that have propelled it onto the global stage, through the use of French barrels and innovative production techniques.
Join us as we uncork the fascinating history of this iconic wine, celebrating the influences and advancements that continue to shape its legacy today.
The Noble Origins of Barolo Wine
Barolo’s journey begins in the picturesque landscapes of the Piedmont region in northwestern Italy. This area, characterized by its rolling hills and fertile lands, has been the cradle of some of Italy’s most esteemed wines. Barolo, often referred to as the “King of Wines and the Wine of Kings,” draws its nobility not just from its majestic flavor profile but from its historical roots intertwined with the aristocracy. The wine’s earliest origins are somewhat shrouded in mystery, but it is widely believed that Barolo has been produced in the region for about two centuries, long before it gained its current acclaim.
The nebbiolo grape, the varietal from which Barolo is made, has been cultivated in the Piedmont region since at least the XVIII century. Nebbiolo, named after “nebbia,” the Italian word for fog, thrives in the foggy autumn months of the Langhe hills, adding a layer of mystique to its profile.
Read more about the facts, characteristics, and wines produced with the Nebbiolo Grapes on our blog Piedmont Nebbiolo Wine Tours
Juliette Colbert from France to Barolo
Barolo, often referred to as “the king of wines and the wine of kings,” did not always hold such a prestigious title. In fact, prior to the 19th century, Barolo was a markedly different wine—typically sweet or semi-sweet, primarily due to the natural climate of the Langhe region. Fermentation would often halt prematurely in the cold cellars, leaving residual sugar in the wine. As a result, early Barolo bore little resemblance to the structured, dry red we recognize today.
The transformation of Barolo into a refined and noble wine is largely credited to Juliette Colbert Falletti, the Marquise of Barolo. Hailed from a noble French family, she married Carlo Tancredi Falletti, the last heir of a long dynasty that controlled many of the castles on the west side of Alba, on the Langhe Hills.
Juliette Colbert, born in the Bordeaux wine region, was deeply invested in improving the quality of the wine produced on her estate. In the 1830s, she enlisted the help of Louis Oudart, a French enologist who introduced modern vinification methods, ensuring complete fermentation to produce a dry, robust wine. He also advocated for aging the wine in large wood casks, enhancing its ability to mature and develop complexity over time. This marked the birth of what we now consider modern Barolo, although the initial barrel used at that time was made of chestnut wood, which did not enhance the wine as oak was discovered later to do.
Camillo Benso Count of Cavour and the Grinzane Castle
Around the same period, another influential figure, Count Camillo Benso di Cavour—a prominent statesman and key architect of Italian unification—took an interest in the region’s viticulture. He invited Oudart to his estate in Grinzane, a small community dominated by the castle where Cavour lived as the major from 1832 to 1848.
Adopting the same progressive techniques, through his political and social influence, Barolo began gaining recognition across Italy and among European nobility. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Barolo had secured its reputation as a wine of distinction, though it remained somewhat inaccessible due to its intense tannic structure and long aging requirements, often a decade or more before it reached its peak.
This noble beginnings of Barolo are inextricably linked to the Savoy dinasty, one of the oldest royal families in Europe. The House of Savoy, for whom Cavour initially served as Minister of Agriculture and later as Prime Minister, were instrumental in advancing and developing Barolo wine during their governance of the Piedmont region while orchestrating the Unification of Italy from their Royal Palace in Turin.
The Savoy Dynasty and Its Influence on Barolo
The influence of the Savoy dynasty extended beyond the realm of viticulture. Their support for Barolo wine had a profound impact on the local economy and culture. Understanding the potential of this powerful red wine, the Savoy set out to refine its production and promote its virtues, laying the groundwork for its future prestige.
They made targeted investments to enhance winemaking techniques, and during a congress held at their estate in Pollenzo, they invited leading scientists to seek a solution for phylloxera, an epidemic from the Americas that by the XIX century threatened harvests throughout Europe.
The establishment of prestigious vineyards and the promotion of quality winemaking practices fostered a sense of pride and tradition among the people of the Piedmont region. This legacy of excellence would continue to shape the future of Barolo, as subsequent generations of winemakers built upon the foundations laid by their noble predecessors.
Unfortunately, for much of the 19th century, local winemakers did not refine their skills. The technical advancements of viticulture of the Savoy didn’t evolve, hindering any improvements that could enhance winemaking, from better sanitary conditions of the cellars to missed opportunity to elevate the quality of Barolo wine.
The Role of the Barolo Boys in Modern Winemaking
In the Barolo wine region, since the 1950s, many younger generations chose to move to Turin, where a steady job at the car factory promised an escape from their challenging rural lives.
Producing Barolo wine was often unprofitable, leading most farmers to store just a barrel or two in their cellars, sufficient for family consumption. Selling homemade wine was not an option; instead, it was customary to sell grapes to a few large, affluent wine producers.
The transformation of Barolo wine began in the 1970s when the young son of one of the region’s farmers recognized the need for a new identity for Barolo. At that time, Barolo wine lacked appreciation from international critics, was poorly marketed, and failed to meet the expectations of contemporary consumers.
This young farmer, Elio Altare, took a significant step in 1976 by driving his Fiat 500 to Burgundy, France, a renowned benchmark for premium wines. Upon arriving at the first winery, he was surprised to find the cellar owner loading suitcases into his luxury sports car before leaving for the French Riviera, where his yacht was docked. This starkly contrasted with the lifestyle of wine-makers in France and the hardships faced by Piedmontese farmers.
The Barolo Boys Revolution
Elio Altare, Chiara Boschis, and their friends embarked on a challenging journey filled with numerous attempts and experiments. Throughout the 1980s, these young winemakers collaborated to enhance the quality of their wines. They participated in blind tastings of each other’s wines, discussing their different methods. Their goal was to create the finest wine possible in a shorter timeframe, allowing it to be enjoyed much sooner than the typical twenty years of aging required at that time.
The group garnered attention when a young Italian-American wine importer joined the team and organized their first marketing tour in the US, earning them the nickname ” Barolo Boys”.
They shaped the modern era of Barolo winemaking driven by a desire to challenge traditional practices and introduce new techniques that would elevate the quality and appeal of Barolo on the global stage.
Aging Barolo Wine in French Toasted Oak Barrels
Traditionally, Barolo was aged in large wooden casks, which imparted a more rustic and robust flavor. The wine production was poorly done in musty cellars where a barrel passed down from grandparents was cherished- too costly to replace yet too old to enhance the wine.
The Barolo Boys introduced the innovation of aging Barolo in French barrels in Piedmont. These smaller barrels, at just 225 liters, had a greater surface area for the wine to interact with, allowing to facilitate the integration of more nuanced flavors, such as vanilla and spice, which complemented the natural characteristics of the nebbiolo grape.
The introduction of French toasted barriques allowed winemakers to achieve a greater degree of control over the aging process, resulting in a more refined and elegant wine.
The Green Harvest and the Barolo War
In addition to their innovative aging techniques, the Barolo Boys also embraced modern viticultural practices. They focused on improving vineyard management, implementing sustainable farming methods, and carefully selecting the best grape clusters for production.
Alongside the usual winter pruning, vine clusters were now trimmed in August, just weeks before harvest. This practice, known as “green harvest,” helps redirect nutrients from the vine to the remaining clusters, concentrating the ripening process. These efforts resulted in higher-quality fruit, which in turn led to better wine.
The ensuing generational conflicts rocked the region as older farmers struggled to comprehend and accept the innovations imported from France. Chiara Boschis, the sole female member of the Barolo Boys, faced family upheaval after she was seen removing grapes from the family’s vines during summer. Elio Altare even resorted to destroying old family barrels with a chainsaw, leading his father to disown him; he passed away two years later believing his son had lost his mind.
The “Barolo War” pitted the new generation of winemakers against their older counterparts, who found it challenging to recognize their identity in the innovative Barolo wines created by their sons. This divergence led to debate and division, but ultimately resulted in a broadening of Barolo’s identity.
The Barolo Boys’ commitment to excellence in both the vineyard and the cellar set a new standard for Barolo production, inspiring other winemakers to follow suit.
The Evolution of Barolo Wine Production
The evolution of Barolo wine production was also influenced by the changing tastes and preferences of consumers. As the demand for high-quality wines grew, winemakers were motivated to continually improve their techniques and explore new approaches. This spirit of innovation and experimentation led to the development of different styles of Barolo, each with its own unique characteristics. Some producers focused on creating traditional, full-bodied wines with a long aging potential, while others sought to craft more approachable, fruit-forward expressions that could be enjoyed at a younger age.
Today, nearly thirty years after the Barolo Boys began their mission, hostilities appear to have ended, making it difficult to determine a clear winner. Both traditionalist Barolo, aged in large, non-toasted barrels, and modernist Barolo, aged in small toasted French barrels, coexist. Many winemakers experiment with both types of wood, creating balanced flavors and adding unique character to their wines.
The impact of the Barolo Boys extended beyond the realm of winemaking. Their bold approach and willingness to challenge tradition helped to elevate the profile of Barolo wine on the international stage. By producing wines that garnered critical acclaim and captured the attention of wine enthusiasts worldwide, the Barolo Boys played a crucial role in establishing Barolo as a premier wine region. Their legacy continues to influence contemporary winemakers, who build upon their innovations while honoring the rich history and traditions of Barolo.
Discover the 11 Facts About Barolo Wine in our blog about the requirements of the DOCG appellation, minimum aging, area of production, soil composition and much else.
Unveiling the History Behind the Legendary Barolo Wine
The history of Barolo wine is a rich and captivating tale that spans centuries, from its noble beginnings under the House of Savoy to the innovative contributions of the Barolo Boys. This esteemed wine, crafted from the nebbiolo grape, embodies the perfect harmony between tradition and modernity. The dedication and passion of the winemakers, coupled with the unique terroir of the Piedmont region, have resulted in a wine that is celebrated for its complexity, elegance, and aging potential.
Barolo’s journey is one of resilience and transformation, with each generation of winemakers building upon the legacy of their predecessors. The influence of the Savoy dynasty laid the foundation for Barolo’s enduring prestige, while the innovations introduced by the Barolo Boys propelled the wine onto the global stage. The key regions and vineyards within the Barolo appellation, each with its own distinctive terroir, contribute to the wine’s diversity and complexity. Lastly, the combination of climate, soil, and topography creates the perfect conditions for the cultivation of the nebbiolo grape, resulting in wines that are both expressive and unique.
Tasting Barolo is an experience that offers a glimpse into the rich history and craftsmanship behind each bottle. The wine’s aromatic intensity, firm structure, and remarkable aging potential make it a true gem in the world of wine. As we uncork a bottle of Barolo, we are not only savoring its rich flavors but also celebrating the centuries of tradition and innovation that have shaped its legacy. The story of Barolo is a testament to the enduring allure of this iconic wine, and its place as the “King of Wines” is well-deserved.
